Straight Razors
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 BARBER BLADE STRAIGHT RAZOR Marble Shaving Pocket Knife $7.95 Time Remaining: 2h 37m |
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 BARBER BLADE STRAIGHT RAZOR Marble Shaving Pocket Knife $7.95 Time Remaining: 4h 12m |
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 NEW 975 Stainless Steel Chopper Barbers Straight Razor Folding Knife $8.99 Time Remaining: 5h 49m |
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Straight Razors
The Classification Of Straight Razors
1. Point type
Blades are, at first, categorised according to point type. There are three main types of point:
Square, spike or sharp point, so called because the point profile is straight and terminates at a very sharp point perpendicular to the cutting edge of the razor. This type ofblade is used for precise shaving in small areas but, at the risk of pinching the skin, it requires some experience in handling.
French (or oblique) point. Its point profile resembles a quarter circle, but with a sharper angled curve, and while it ends in a similarly sharp point as the square point it lacks the abrupt straight line edge profile. The difference between these two is mainly aesthetic.
Round point. As the name implies the point profile is semicircular and therefore it lacks any sharp end points. As such it is a more forgivingblade than the other two types and, although lacking the pinpoint accuracy of the other two, it is recommended for relatively new users. There are also secondary edge types that derive from a combination of the above such as half round point incorporating round edges joined by a linear segment.
2. Grinding method
The second category refers to the type of grinding method used and, since it affects the curvature of the blade cross section, includes the following two main types of blade grinds:
Flat or straight grind, indicating that the sides of the blade cross section are linear. This cross section most closely resembles a wedge and therefore this blade is sometimes called the wedge.
Hollow grind, indicating that the sides of the blade cross section are concave.
The combination of the types found in these two classification categories can, in theory, lead to a wide variety of blade types such as round point hollow ground, square point flat ground etc., but in practice some points are combined with a specific grind. As an example, a French pointblade is usually flat ground.
For a blade to be most effective in cutting it must be as thin as possible. Therefore the grinding method that removes the most material from theblade, without compromising blade integrity, is to be preferred.
A hollow grind produces a thinner blade than the flat grind because it removes more material from the blade (hollows or thins the blade more) and is generally considered a more effective (and expensive) method. In fact some high-end razor manufacturers limit their production exclusively to hollow groundrazors.
3. Blade width
The third and final category refers to blade width. The width of the blade is defined as the distance between the back of the blade and the cutting edge. It is expressed in units of eighth of an inch. The sizes vary from 3/8" up to 7/8", rarely 8/8". A wider blade can carry more lather, much like a scoop, during multiple successive shaving strokes and thus it allows the user more shaving time and minimises blade rinse cycles.
The disadvantage of the wider blade is that it is not as manoeuverable as a narrower blade. A narrow blade can shave tight facial spots such as under the nose, but it must be rinsed more often. The most popular blade width size is 5/8".
About the Author
At the Straight Razor Collector you will find the latest contemporary, antique and vintage straight razors for you to collect, restore and enjoy.
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